Use defineOnFirstUse by default for calculator products, and take advantage of that in the tests

It is still true that to have minimal number of calls, explicitly specifying all places where the column with the result of jet/met/rochester calculators should be defined is the best - but "on first use" is much better than "at every use", which can quickly become a lot if some is forgotten, so this seems to be a better default choice.

In both cases (defineOnFirstUse and forceDefine), it is still checked if a column is already defined, so if they are mixed the first will be taken. That means this option does not need to be changed if forceDefine is used as well, it will just be a protection against forgetting some calls then.